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DAY 106: Stomaching dinner theatre

15 Dec

I HAVEN’T had claustrophobia since my brother and his friend stuffed me upside down into a sleeping bag and sealed off the entrance.

(See also: emptying a waste bin over my head, farting in my face, bursting into my bedroom mid-CATS-dance-routine, breaking my bike… I have a fully itemised account somewhere that’s still awaiting a fair jury.)

Upon being herded into a wedge-shaped table at Dracula’s Cabaret Restaurant, though, by a gaggle of perky drama students in white makeup and Twansylvaaaanian accents, I have an overwhelming urge to struggle and flee.

It’s partly that overtly ‘naughty’ tone of voice everyone’s using – the one that curdled my guts at the SEXPO – and partly the exhausting feeling that you should try and make the corseted waitstaff feel better on their ceaseless rounds of your table, as they’ve obviously been asked to make naughty-voiced small talk. It’s like the strip club all over again.

Still, it’s definitely not “the worst night of my life,” as one web review put it. The show’s made up of risqué musical numbers (as one performer notes, he gets to put “giant sperm” on his resumé), and bawdy stand-up routines, quite frequently with that flaming homosexual delivery that’s no doubt had people rolling in the aisles since Biblical times. Tell you what, though – the food’s good. I’d sit through the Marquis de Sade-as-flaming-homosexual skit and the “I’m horny, horny, horny, horny” song three times for just five minutes with another of those chocolate mousse coffins.

Keeper? One of our number is actually desperate to go again, and is even scheduling in Dracula’s on the Gold Coast. But for me? Now, THIS is dinner theatre.

DAY 104: Perusing the Art Gallery of NSW

13 Dec

THESE were my favourite bits…

Russell Drysdale 'Sunday Evening'

Sidney Nolan 'Hare in Trap'

Lin Onus 'Fruit Bats'

I can’t find a picture of ‘Devine Inspiration’ by Richard Bell, so here’s another of his.

DAY 98: Learning an amazing fact at the Bendigo Visitor Information Centre

7 Dec

NOW look, I wasn’t sure how interesting this would be for you, but I told a couple of locals at a barbecue last night and they were just fascinated, so here goes.

You’ll be familiar with Bendigo, hoon capital of Australia? Well, an English toffee-noser actually named it Sandhurst, after the elite military academy he’d never attended on account of his debilitatingly limp wrists, but then the townsfolk rose up and voted to rename the place in 1891.

‘Bendigo’ was the nickname of a local boxer, pinched off Brit bare-knuckle fighter William Abednego Thompson – a man who never even set foot in the pub-challenged province, or Australia, for that matter.

So there you have it: Bendigo was way ahead of the rest of the country when it came to inventing silly names.

Keeper? Yes, I’ll keep that nugget for dinner parties. NB: If the question “Why is Bendigo called Bendigo?” comes up in an exam, do not quote me verbatim.

I'd grow a beard like that if I could.

DAY 97: Tripping over the Garfield water wheel

6 Dec

SO far my driving lesson excursions have taken in the Porcupine Township, a fleet of London buses, Castlemaine Gaol, the Harcourt wineries and some spectacular views.

I’m clearly just a chauffeur for my instructor, as I have to tightly enquire: “Am I going left or right?” whenever we hit a junction (rare, when you’re tootling around picturesque backwaters) and, “Can I try some parallel parking now?”

The remains of this 1887 wheel, in a backroad known as Forest Creek, wasn’t even signposted. How about that? They’ve just forgotten about it. In England we’d erect a statue and cordon it off.

Keeper? I’d probably show off and take someone out here, yeah.

DAY 94: Taking the Fed Square tour

3 Dec

I KNOW I loved fortune cookies yesterday, but I want to start today by saying I love tour guides. A tour guide’s eyes won’t light up at every part of their spiel – in fact, sometimes it’s the least expected bit – but then: dink! They’re lit.

Of all the wobbly weirdness Federation Square has to offer, my guide’s eyes light up largest over this hidden bit of architecture around by a little used set of toilets, that you won’t even notice unless you look up…

…which is a great example of how London architects Don Bates and Peter Davidson, and Melbourne firm Bates Smart, who jointly built the precinct between 1997 and 2002, thought everything through to the tiniest detail. From the entries and exits designed to mimic the local hidden laneways, to the words engraved into the sandstone tiles of the plaza, to the use itself of ancient sandstone from the Kimberley (often with fossils embedded), they folded meaning and significance into every last inch of the structure.

Over-egging their own pudding (ooh-yay!) are the earnest schoolboys we unearth in the BMW Edge, who are attempting a particularly complicated Muse cover. They’re not representative of the level of entertainment Federation Square has to offer… but they are entertaining.

My favourite part of any tour is hearing about old rogues, though – there’s always one. The Australian Centre for the Moving Image is in the Alfred Deakin Centre beneath Fed Square, and our guide has a chortle about how Alf was an anonymous commentator on Australian politics for a British newspaper (apologies if you knew this – I am an English). He’s like the first undercover media blogger – before the days of Twitter disclaimers.

Keeper? Yes! Already been for a feed.

DAY 90: Going to the cops

29 Nov

John Christie, a master of many disguises. Chair dancer among them?

HOW fitting, to mark day 90 – three months into my buck-your-ideas-up (TM Dad) scheme – by really breaking out the bunting and sounding those bells and whistles.

Unfortunately, it’s a Monday – got things to do, people to see – and so I wind up going to the Victoria Police Museum on Flinders: To miss it would be a crime!

The museum’s small, but a nice addendum to a Melbourne Gaol visit. There are plenty of pictures of handsome bushrangers and ne’er-do-wells; some Kelly armour (it’s 45kg, you know) and an exhibition dedicated to the collapse of the Westgate Bridge.

My favourite part was about dapper detective John Christie, who served in the late 1800s, “described as the idol of the Victorian public because of his astounding feats of athletics, his many hair-breadth escapes, extraordinary ruses and tricks, and his ingenuity and resourcefulness.” Pretty easy on the eye, too.

Keeper? I’ll keep John in mind when I get around to that novel. (As opposed to the ‘novel’.)

DAY 83: Thrashing around at Vaughan Springs

22 Nov


THIS is a popular local it’s-too-hot spot, judging by the utes, blue singlets and mocking gazes directed at our picnic. I am still only blowing 0.0005 as a bona fide country chick, though. A ways to go. I turned down a wild rabbit dinner tonight, and it’s not even like I was asked to slaughter it myself.

Keeper? Yes! Next time will try to thrash around less at the possibility of eels.

DAY 80: Hanging on, on a Harley

19 Nov
I DEVELOPED a bit of a thing for bikers in my teens when I happened across a picture of Sonny Barger, the head honcho of the Hells Angels’ notorious Oakland chapter .

Sonny had one of those boyish faces that suggested mischief rather than ultraviolence – or maybe a bit of both – but I was particularly drawn to the tattoo on his forearm. When I blew up the picture on a photocopier, it looked to be some kind of abstract creature: I could just make out an evil eye and a beak. I’d been looking for a design for my first tattoo, and this was perfect. There may even have been some substitute father stuff going on. There usually was.

This was the photo I blew up x 1000.

I spent months honing this image until I’d turned it into a motif fit for permanent disfiguration… but I made a last-minute swerve after being handed some literature by a couple of cult members in Birmingham’s Bullring shopping centre, in which it predicted the human race would be barcoded with the mark of the devil and sent packing to hell.

One barcode and several years later, I saw more pictures of Sonny (he sports a tracheotomy hole these days) and realised that the mystical creature on his arm was actually a rather pedestrian cross. So thank god I got the barcode, eh?

It's a cross!

Anyway, my pillion experience has been limited to hoony Japanese models, so I decide to book myself in for a bit of HD Old Lady treatment right here in Melbourne – without the customary train pulling. Andy, of Andy’s Harley Rides and Tours, has been riding for 40 years and is a tough old boot. He meets me outside Southern Cross Station and straps me carefully into a helmet and heavy leather jacket… and quickly it transpires that this is indeed the life.

Ah, the smell of the bay and the wind in your teeth. Bolte Bridge rips the spit from my mouth and the snot from my nose, but I cling on like a koala and gamely swallow flies. Once in the Domain Tunnel, I hear echoing screams and howls of engines that you’re not privy to on four wheels. “They’re just jealous,” yells Andy, as the odd tool in a car tries to block our passage between them. Andy regularly guns the throttle to give a ferocious roar – not for effect, as I initially suspected, but to let ’em know we’re passing.

Albert Park nearly knocks my sunnies off as we hit 90. My back aches from tensing and my feet are cramping in my efforts to keep my leg away from the piping hot exhaust, but Andy assures me this passes with practice, and it doesn’t stop me grinning like the village idiot.

Cruising down St Kilda’s Acland Street, I’m glad there isn’t a big ‘Andy’s Harley Tours’ plastered on the side of the bike, as hopefully that means we’re turning heads for the right reasons. It’s a beautiful evening for a ride, with the kite surfers hooning around the wave tops and the smell of seafood in the air. I catch the train home with a face covered in grime.

Keeper? Yeah. Great for those core muscles.

DAY 78: Going to the Rock Chicks exhibition

17 Nov
Little Pattie Amphlett. She looks very much like cousin Chrissie here, no?

THE name made me give a little gag, but the Rock Chicks exhibition itself (at Melbourne’s Art Centre) was very good.

Chrissie Amphlett's frock. I almost touched myself.

A TV Week 'Queen of Pop' award. Is it entirely a coincidence that it looks like an upside down vagina?

Keeper? I’ve been twice now! That’s enough.

DAY 77: Checking out Station Pier

16 Nov

Tch. They've built it on a slope!

HAVING learned about the history of Station Pier on Day 63 at the Museum of Immigration, I decided to go and have a look at the thing itself. You know it – it’s the pier in Port Phillip Bay that the Spirit of Tasmania leaves from. The original Railway Pier was built in the 1850s, but was restructured as Station Pier in the 1920s.

By the way, Port Melbourne in the morning is awesome, no matter what you think of the locals…

How good's my camera, though?

Keeper? Yes.